Note: all names mentioned below are cited from the 1:125,000 Around Annapurna map of Himalayan MapHouse
October 12 1998: Pokhara (820 metres) -Nayapul (1,070) - Ramgai (1,340)
I survived the first day in the Himalaya, at least I was told so...
October 13 1998: Ramgai - Tirkedhunga (1,540) -Ulleri (2,080) - Banthati (2,300)
3,000 stone steps from Tirkedhunga to Ulleri: stairway to heaven?
October 14 1998: Banthati - Ghorapani (2,860) -Deurali (2,990)
Tibetan hospitality, garlick-mushroom soup and a mountain view that rivals Poon Hill.
October 15 1998: Deurali - Tadapani (2,590) - Chomrong (2,170)
Descending to the riverside, but then again climbing. Freshly baked apple pie and pizza's were our reward at Chomrong Guesthouse.
October 16 1998: Chomrong - Bamboo (2,340) - Doban (2,510)
With weather conditions suddenly changing (rain!) we were lucky to find the last unoccupied room in the lodge.
October 17 1998: Doban - Machhapucnhre Base Camp (MBC for short) (3,700)
Early morning fog was here to stay. Somehow we made it to 3,700 metres, passing a really huge piece of melting ice.
October 18 1998: MBC - Annapurna Base Camp (4130)
After being nicely ripped of by the didi of the guest house, we started the last hours way up to our destination: ABC. The freezing drizzle didn't mean a thing to us, men from the Lowlands. Once up at ABC they had to defrost us above the kerosine stove.
October 19 1998: ABC-Doban
When the clouds disappeared in the cours of the morning, we were provided most fantastic views of the Annapurna Range, Machhapucnhre and Hiunchulli. Speachless we started our descend to Doban.
October 20 1998: Doban - Landrung (1,640)
Starting before 7 AM passing through Chomrong (double apple pie, please) and Jhinu Danda (1,780) we arrived just before sunset at Landrung. Even our porter Harikrishna admitted that it had been a tough but steady walk. Mr and Mrs Gurung of the Moonshine Lodge surmounted their colleagues in the area with their tremendous hospitality. The hot shower in the evening and the breathtaking views in the morning only added to the pleasant stay we had.
Lunchtime on the trail with Canadian fellow travellers Agnes and Chris
October 21 1998: Landrung-Pokhara
A sort of homecoming at tika day: cheered by dozens of children along the trail, our backpacks hung with flowers and completely out of cash we arrived at Khare (1,770). We spent our last 500 rupees on a taxi taking us to the real world of noisy trucks and Internet access. Lakeside didn't seem to have changed during our absence.